How To: Forge FS Engine

This is not as complete as I would like

I am always in the process of building a new spare motor for MP5T.

I wanted to post up all the information so you could save you much time.

Contact me directly at  if you have a very specific question.

Parts You Will Need, With Price.

Used Engine – Oil Pan to Valve Cover. $900.00 (Local Scrap Yard)
Forged Pistons 9:1 or 8.5:1 – CP / ARIAS. $500.00 (over 3.288″ C.H. 1.177″)
Piston Rings – Included with Pistons
Wrist Pin – Included with Pistons
Forged Rods – Olliver or Pauter MAZ-190-510-1350F $500.00
Main Bearings – OEM Mazda or Clevite MS-2057 $100.00
Rod Bearings – OEM Mazda or Clevite CB-1652P $100.00
Bearing Shims – Clevite TW-596S $30.00
Head Bolts – OEM or ARP Kit $100.00
Head Gasket – OEM or COMETIC C5844-030 $100.00
Main Bolts – OEM $100.00 or ARP
Oil Sprayer – OEM (Oil Jet Under Piston ) $100.00
Water Pump – OEM Rebuild $100.00
Timing Belt – OEM $100.00 or Gates
Valve Seals – OEM $50.00
Valve Springs – OEM $50.00 (Can reuse Original)
Cam Output Seals – OEM $40.00
Crank Output Seals – OEM $40.00
Oil Pump – OEM (May Not Be Required Unless High Miles)
Spark Plugs
Assembly Lube
Black Sealant
Grey Sealant
“The Right Stuff” Sealant (Can also be used in lieu of Black and Grey)

Tools Required

(Socket, Wrenches, Hammers, Piston Ring Tool, basic tools) Plus These Specifically.

10mm 12 Point Socket (Rod Bolts)
12mm 12 Point Socket (Main Bolts)
10mm Allen 1/2 Drive (OEM Head Bolts)
Precise Torque Wrench (Head Bolts in/Lbs)
Paint Marker like this is helpful …



Engine Work Starts


Self Explanatory. A Bath of Nasty Chemicals which remove years of Crud and grease from the engine. A bath that prepares the engine to be machined. A Good way to start any project.


Not always required.

The process of align honing resets the geometry of the Mains to the cylinder so that all the force is perfectly centered on the crank. This prevents crank walk and can actually increase the longevity of the motor. To begin, the main caps are removed and the mating surface is milled. When the mains are installed on the block and torqued to specification, they are no longer round. A specialized long mill is used to align all main caps round, and perfectly centered in the block.

The process can also be applied to the Cams.


The standard bore is the width (Diameter) of the cylinder. With normal use, the cylinder will not wear very much, however, if you miss oil changes, or AUTO-X the car, you might have scoring on the cylinder walls. It is possible to re-hone the cylinder. Sometimes if it is required to take a bit too much metal off to get that nice round shape, an Overbore piston must be ordered, They are normally in the order of 10 or 20 “THOU” over for the protege. (Ten Thousand of an inch). On other cars they can be .60 over or even .120 over.

This is very important. If you over the cylinder and not the piston, then that 10 THOU ends up forcing on the rings that are not designed to hold pressure in that way. They quickly fail. The piston should be as tight as possible (close to the wall), the rings have a small open gap, when compressed in the cylinder the gap will be almost fully closed and make a full seal. The ring gap must alternate. If there are two rings, the gap for the first one will be at 12 O’clock and the second will be at 6 O’clock.


Fairly Obvious and easy to overlook.

Surface: The Surface should be as free of damage as possible. A Fresh machined surface is the best way to set yourself for success.

Straightness: A bent block will NEVER SEAL. If it is warped, this must be done to the block to return it to a flat surface.

It is very important that this new surface is totally covered with oil, protected by cardboard and wood for transportation.

It is equally important that the surface is totally bare just before the head gasket goes on. Brake Cleaner and a heat gun (Can cause Flame).

Apply the brake cleaner and do not use your fingers as they have oil. Let it dry or force it dry with a heat gun and very quickly place the head gasket.



NOTE: The head has three wear marks, They work like a wear mark on a tire.

If the machining that must be done, goes down to that point, then the head is GARBAGE. The piston could hit the top of the head and totally damage the entire motor. Get a new head and rebuild it.

Same as before, a big blast of brake cleaner, and a heat gun, just before being placed over the head gasket.


Changing the pistons and Rods, will upset the balance of the crank. It will need to be re-balanced to the new weight.


Do This Well, and Life Will not take a giant shit on your day.

INSTALLING: Oil Pump, Crank and Output Seals

Output seals are easy, you will figure it out. Tap them into place if required with a soft rubber mallet, do not bend them till they crease. make sure that the spring is inside the seal. Pre lubricate the seal, make sure that the surface that will be turning inside the seal has no damage or rough surfaces that will tear the seal. Now is the time to fix that sort of damage with steel wool. Make sure to fully clean the part that you work on, steel wool will leave contamination that will be picked up by the oil pump or end up somewhere that you don’t want it.

A note for the following section: It is not standard to blast everything with WD-40, This is my own personal trick to make sure that everything that may have been sitting for days or weeks is clean. Once the engine runs, I usually change the oil quickly to make sure that all of the WD-40 that may be in the oil, is removed,

Crank: Invert the engine and blast the mains with WD-40, Place half the bearings in their correct location (x5) place assembly lube and then lower the crank in place. (Must be as clean as possible, something such as a hair or a piece of sand will ruin your hard work)

Put the other bearings in the main caps and lube them.

Place them over the crank, but do not force them down. Install the new main bolts you get from Mazda or ARP if you decided to go that way. (I had ARP Studs for this and they torque in three stages, 40, 50, then 60 in a star pattern.

Oil pump should be primed with motor oil or light grease, pour oil in and rotate the gears. Make sure that the O-Ring is installed and seal it to the block with Grey Silicone.

Installing Pistons and Rods

Engine-6 Engine-7

The pistons and Rings should be assembled by a person who has done it before, or read up on how to do it and practice on old pistons. Used piston rings are brittle, you can not practice well by taking old pistons apart and reinstalling the rings.

The pistons should be installed in pairs only, The two outside at once or the two inside at once.

I bast the machined surface of the crank, cylinder, Pistons, Rods with some sort of oil like WD-40. This is done only to get the dirt and shit off of the parts. Apply an oil bath (Dunk Them In Good Oil) to the surface of the piston and rings then compress the piston rings in a compressor. It works well if a second set of hands hold the compressor when you tap the piston in place. NOTE: If you have FIREBALL COATING, you must take special care to not mar the surface. There is a special tool to install them which is totally not required, You can normally use a fist or place a piece of Poly-U on the piston and tap it in with wood like normal.

Make sure that the piston is able to easily slide in with several small taps, rather than one big one.

Before the rod makes contact with the crank, install the rod bearings. Clean them with WD-40, then put assembly lube on the crank. Push the piston in by hand until it seats on the crank. Put the second part of the bearing in the rod cap and lightly screw in the bolts on the cap, just to hold stuff in place. Repeat this for the second piston.

If it is an APR bolt, there is Torque Grease that must be applied to the bolt to give consistent results.

My Pauter Rods came with a 50 Ft Lb torque requirement and a 12 Point bolt head.

I suggest first torquing to 40 then to 50.

Once the two are torqued, you can spin the crank to make sure there is no binding. It is normal for this to feel seized. Even with the oil on the cylinder walls, you are literally polishing the rough surface of the cylinder, and all the bearings by hand.

Installing Windage Plate and Oil Pan
Use Grey or Black Permitex sealent. Make sure that the O Ring is between the oil pump and the tray. This MUST BE INSTALLED before the transmission goes on and can not be removed unless the engine is no longer attached to the transmission. Sorry lads, if you want this part off, the engine and trans have to be out.

Installing Water Pump
Use “The Right Stuff” Gasket from Permitex, or the Paper gasket that Mazda Sells.

Installing Head Gasket and Head Bolts (Procedure for OEM Bolts)


Engine-9 Engine-11Cylinder Head Installation Note
1. BUY NEW BOLTS FROM DEALER YOU CHEAP BASTARD (I don’t give a fuck what others tell you to do, they are Torque Yield Bolts, meaning they behave like a spring.
Standard length
104.2—104.8 mm {4.103—4.125 in}
Maximum length
105.5 mm {4.153 in}

2. Tighten the cylinder head bolts from center out in a star pattern. This is so that the gasket is able to lie completely flat and not bunch up during the install..


Tightening torque, NOTE THAT THIS IS A VERY TINY NUMBER, use a 10mm Allen Socket and as short of an extension as possible. The extension will make the torque wrench read LOWER than actual, use the higher 16.5 Foot pounds value. I had to convert it to Inch Ounces as that is what my small torque wrench is scaled in.

17.5—22.5 N·m 1.79—2.29 kgf·m,
From 13.0 Foot Pound To 16.5 Foot Pound

After you have torqued all 10 bolts in the proper sequence, you should verify the torque making sure not to over torque.


Get a Paint marker and precisely mark the 12 O’clock position on all 10 bolts and let it dry for 10 min.

You should have a second person help steady the engine for the next part as it requires a fair bit of force.

With the Paint mark as a reference, Starting From 1 to 10 like before apply 90 Degrees to each bolt.
Once you have done all 10, then
Apply a second 90 Degrees to each bolt. (You Will Feel As If You Will Break The Bolt, You must apply the full 90 Degrees.)

Once done, all marks will be 180 Degrees from where they were painted, or 6 O’Clock.

Installing Cams

Engine-15 Engine-16 Engine-17

Installing Cam Gears
More To Follow

Timing The Engine
More To Follow

Do not put assembly lube on the Piston Rings.. Those get Motor Oil.
If you are unsure, you should verify the clearance of the bearings with a plasti-gauge.


1.  Head gaskets – Typically “nothing” totally clean MLS Gasket, but Carl had mentioned use of “Copper Spray” has been used with good success. I personally have NEVER USED IT. However, I plan to try it if the headgasket ever fails I see from Permatex’s website that it can also be used for exhaust manifold gaskets.

2.  Intake Manifold gasket – Again, I use OEM (Blue Seal), but others have used Permitex Ultra Blue, Ultra Copper, and even Ultra Grey.

3.  Valve cover, Windage Tray, Oil Pan – Ultra Black or Ultra Grey

4. Water Pump – DO NOT USE BLACK OR GREY Coolant will erode it. You must use “The Right Stuff”